In case you missed it:
About a year ago my Dad sent me an email with a power point presentation about a crazy hike in Southwest Norway called Preikestolen, and I have been hell-bent on doing this hike ever since. And that is how we ended up in Norway for the second leg of our trip. For some reason it is cheaper to fly from Scotland to Norway than from Sweden to Norway (look at a map… this really doesn’t make sense!), which is why we flew to Glasgow first, and then on Day 5, we flew from Edinburgh to Haugesund, Norway. From the teeny tiny airport of Haugesund, we took a 2 hour bus to Stavanger, Norway. From there we took a bus to Stavanger airport (Norway infrastructure is crazy. Partly because they were poor up until recently, and partly because they have a zillion mountains and fjords which makes building a straight line next to impossible). Anyways, after waking up at 4 am in Edinburgh, by about 1 pm, we were finally in our rental car and ready to take on our first hike- Preikestolen (also known as The Pulpit Rock).
The hike was quite crowded, probably since it was a really nice day. I think we missed most of the crowds though since we got there later in the day. There were definitely more people making their way down than there were going up, so that was good. You can see from the picture above that the hike isn’t too steep, but there were a few parts that required at least some physical strain.
It took about an hour and half to get up to the top, and when we got there- wow.
It has an amazing view of the fjord (Lysefjord) and the sheer cliff was just mind blowing. We carefully dangled our feet over the ledge and took a peak over the edge out of sheer curiosity. I typically don’t have a problem with heights, but it really did make you dizzy. No one has ever fallen off the cliff, but I am aware that I am particularly clumsy, so I tried to be more cautious than I probably normally would be. Check out some of my favorite pics:
After we took our fair share of pictures, we headed down since we had a long drive to get to our hotel. Our hotel was in Lysebotn, Norway, which can only be reached by ferry (which we had missed) or by taking a very long, out of the way, one-lane winding road through the mountains. Blake had to do all of the driving since it was a manual, which I still haven’t learned how to drive. The drive itself was spectacular though. The funny part was all of the sheep that just roamed freely along the side of the road.
At the end of the drive, we had to drive only 7 km downhill, which was so windy that it took almost a half hour. Isn’t this road the craziest thing you have ever seen?
When we finally arrived at our “Bed and Breakfast” at 11 pm we were a little disappointed to say the least. First off- this was our curtain situation:
Mind you, we were on the ground floor and anyone could just walk right up to our window. Not to mention that the sun barely goes down in the summer. Then we noticed there were no towels (for the community bathroom), one of our doors wouldn’t shut properly, and it didn’t look like there were sheets on our bed. At this point I was pretty cranky- all I wanted to do was take a shower and go to bed. I was upset to say the least. So I went down to the reception desk and calmly (I swear) explained that there was a problem. I said that there were no curtains, no sheets and no towels. To which he replied- “Oh, we rent towels, but we ran out.” Uh… are you kidding me? No where did it say to bring your own towels! We hadn’t showered in 2 days and we had been hiking all day… we needed a shower- badly. Then another lady that worked there, started yelling at me, about having just put clean sheets on. I insisted that there weren’t any (turns out there were sheets, but they were weird Scandinavian sheets (they really don’t know how to do sheets here)). I did start to get upset at this point since this lady was yelling at me. I said that it was completely unacceptable that there weren’t towels available and that we had no curtains! I mean, I can even understand the towel situation, but seriously- not having curtains that cover the window? WTF?!!! I find it hard to believe that no on had complained about that before. We couldn’t even get dressed in our own room! They said they would take care of it though, and I have to admit that they did. They found us a couple of towels, and they brought us a blanket to hang up as a curtain.
The bad part was that it was a small place, and now everyone hated us. We were staying there for 3 days, and there was no other place for about fifty miles to stay or to eat- we were stuck there. And yes- part of me could have perhaps handled it better. But no towels and curtains?! That is their problem.
The next day (after showering and sleeping in) we were ready to take on the next hike- Kjeragbolten (also known as The Mortised Boulder). Luckily we were a short drive (well we had to drive up that really crazy windy road that we had driven down the night before). When we got to the start of the hike, which starts at this adorable café that is literally hanging on the edge of a cliff- it was pouring rain. We inquired about the weather, seeing if it would clear up, and everyone said that the weather up in the mountains changes all the time, so we decided to tough it out and start the hike in the rain.
You can see from the picture of the hike above that this hike was going to be a lot tougher. It was very steep in some parts, and you had to climb and descend 3 peaks on the way there. And like I said, it was raining, which made the rocks very, very slippery. After the first 20 minutes, a family stopped us, asked us where we were from, and after we replied we were American, he told us that it was too hard and that we should turn around. This guy obviously doesn’t know Americans- that was motivation to finish the hike right there! Pssshh… turn around? Fat chance! The hike had a bunch of chains that were quite necessary (especially on the slippery rocks) to make it up.
The rain finally stopped right about the time we reached the top of the 3rd peak, and managed to stay sunny the whole time we were at the top (we had a 45 minute walk across fairly flat terrain after we reached the top of the 3rd peak).
Then we were finally there!
You can step right onto it from the back, but it really was just wedged right in between 2 cliffs. And it was just hanging about a 1000 meter drop! One misstep and it would have been a long way to fall! Since the weather had been so crappy, we had it all to ourselves! Which was cool at first, but I wanted to get a picture of Blake and I together on the rock. I figured out how to put my camera on a timer, but I only had 30 seconds to start the camera and run over and jump onto the rock. Probably not my best idea… but isn’t it awesome?!
After a quick lunch we were ready to head back down. The sun stayed out until we started the decent, and then it started to rain… a lot. And it didn’t stop raining the entire rest of the hike. Most hikes I have done are usually mostly uphill on the way there and downhill on the way back. Not this one. On the way back we still had to go downhill, uphill, downhill, uphill, and then finally, downhill. In the pouring rain.
Well, regardless- we finally finished! It was pretty miserable on the way back, but it was totally worth it! Here I am with my celebratory beer! Huzzah!
The next morning we took the long drive back to return our car and go to Stavanger and stay in a real hotel. There wasn’t much to do in Stavanger, but it was a cute town. We walked around the harbor where there was a giant pirate ship from Sweden!
After some much deserved relaxation in Stavanger, we took a (five hour) bus ride to Bergen to meet up with my friend Johannes. Bergen is also adorable, and it was fun to hang out with a local.
Johannes is Norwegian, but grew up in the States. I met him through my old roommate Lisa- they were both studying Econ at UW. Got all that? Anyways, he was nice enough to offer us a place to stay. The weather wasn’t great in Bergen (it never is), so we spent most of the time relaxing. On Saturday, Johannes took us on a hike that would have been spectacular, but- you guessed it- it rained! Like true Scandinavians, we made it to the top and didn’t complain!
Johannes showed us a great time in Bergen but then we were ready to head to our next adventure- Dublin!
Now normally, I just say, oh- click here if you want to see all the pictures. But this time I insist- no wait- DEMAND!!!! THAT YOU SEE ALL THE PICTURES!!!! Seriously… you won’t be disappointed! Norway is by far the most beautiful place I have ever been! Check it out HERE!